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Woman’s formal domestic surcoat
Woman’s formal domestic surcoat

Woman’s formal domestic surcoat

Place of OriginChina
Dateapprox. 1875-1900
DynastyQing dynasty (1644-1911)
MaterialsCut silk (kesi) tapestry and painting on silk
DimensionsH. 56 in x W. 57 in, H. 142.24 cm x W. 144.78 cm
Credit LineGift in honor of Betty Lee Kiang
Object number1998.35
DepartmentChinese Art
ClassificationsTextiles
On View
Not on view
Text Entries
A formal coat with a front opening like this one was an important part of women’s outfits among the upper class of the Qing dynasty. The symmetrical arrangement of the medallions of dragons and flowers on this garment indicates wealth and nobility. Woven into the fabric are designs of butterflies and flowers—peony, magnolia, cockscomb, plum blossom, peach, chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and orchid. This combination is not associated with a specific season; rather, it is a year-round auspicious motif known as “one hundred flowers,” designed to be worn on ceremonial occasions. Above the woven hem are dragons and symbols of Buddhism, including a wheel, banner, parasol, lotus, vase, fish, conch, and knot. The sleeves are decorated with smaller medallions and a shorter wave motif, among which are Buddhist swastikas, branches of coral, wish-granting wands, and scrolls. Together they convey a wish for good fortune and prosperity.
Subject
  • medallion
  • peony
  • magnolia
  • cockscomb
  • prunus
  • peach
  • chrysanthemum
  • osmanthus
  • cymbidium
  • butterfly
  • wave